Overview
The Gila monster, Heloderma suspectum, is native to the southwestern United States and northern Mexico.
As pets they do quite well in captivity, and live very long lives for a lizard.
One thing you should note about owning a pet Gila monster.
It is illegal to own a wild caught Gila monster. The only way to legally own one as a pet is to purchase it from a breeder.
Since they are a venomous reptile, you may also have state and local laws that you need to be aware of.
I wrote an article titled “Can You Have A Pet Gila Monster?” which covers this very topic.
That being said, here is everything you need to know about caring for a pet Gila monster.
*Note: All temperatures listed in this article are in Fahrenheit.
Gila Monster Care Sheet
| Care level | Advanced |
| Temperament | Docile to defensive |
| Native to | Southwestern United States |
| Average size | 12″ – 24″ |
| Cage requirements | 75 gallon minimum |
| Temperature | 82-88 degrees |
| Humidity | 50% |
| Preferred food | Rodents |
| Feeding frequency | Once every two weeks |
| Lifespan | 20-30 years |
Gila Monster Housing Needs
Gila monsters are fairly small lizards that don’t require a huge enclosure.
At its smallest, any enclosure you use should be at least twice as long as the lizards total length including tail, and should be as wide as the lizard is long.
For adults, this means you should have something around four feet long and two feet wide. That is a little bigger than a 75 gallon aquarium. Feel free to go bigger if you would like.
The height of your cage is up to you.
It should be at least two feet tall, but many people prefer to go taller. Although these lizards live on the ground, they are fully capable of climbing as well, so you may prefer to offer them branches and such to climb on.
In the wild, Gila monsters have been known to climb trees and cactus in search of bird nests.
Babies can be housed in an enclosure that is half the size I mentioned above, but I always recommend starting with an adult sized enclosure when possible.
Besides saving you money from buying two cages, it prevents you from being one of those people who plan on upgrading “some day”.
In my experience that “some day” often turns into a reptile owner getting rid of their pet because it has outgrown its cage. Just set it up the right way from the start.
Decorations
These lizards spend 95% of their lives staying in underground burrows they have dug.
This means that in captivity you need to provide them with one or more places to hide.
You can use something as simple as a shoe box with an opening cut out, or you can go with more aesthetically pleasing decorations like a half log or rock cave. Some people go all out in order to have an awesome looking cage!
You might also consider adding branches for your Gila to climb on. Again, the choice is really yours as too how much or how little you want to add.
Be careful adding anything that you find outside however.
Make sure any sticks, branches or rocks you use are sterilized so you don’t introduce pests or parasites into your pets enclosure.
Substrate For A Gila Monster
You have a wide range of choices here, again depending on the look you desire.
Substrate choices could include:
- Newspaper
- Puppy pads
- Exo terra sand
- Aspen chips or shavings
- A mix of playground sand and Eco earth
What is the best substrate for a Gila monster? A combination of play sand and topsoil makes an excellent substrate choice for Gila monsters. 30%-40% sand and 60%-70% topsoil helps maintain the perfect humidity, provides a natural looking enclosure, and allows them to burrow. Be sure to use a topsoil that is free of pesticides and fertilizer.
The main things to consider are substrates that are free of dust, and that are easy to clean.
Gila Monster Temperature
As with all lizards, Gila monsters should be provided with a cool side of the enclosure, and a warm side.
This gradient allows your pet to thermoregulate by picking the temperature that is right for it at any given time.
Here is the best temperature range for a Gila monster. Gila monsters needs a warm side of the cage kept in the high 80’s, and the cool side in the low 80’s. You should also provide a basking area that sits between 90 and 95 degrees. Night time temperatures can be allowed to fall to 75 degrees.
Always provide heat through heat lights rather than heat rocks. Lizards need their heat from the surrounding area, not just from a warm spot.
Under tank heaters (UTH) can be used to maintain temperature as well.
Lighting For A Gila Monster
Gila monsters need UVB light in captivity since they will be lacking the beneficial rays of direct sunlight.
UVB rays help your lizard absorb calcium and synthesize vitamin D3, both of which are essential to the health of your pet.
I recommend going with mercury bulbs for your Gila monster since they will also add heat to the enclosure.
This saves you the expense of having multiple lighting set ups. If you go this route, be sure to recycle your mercury bulbs.
You should also be aware that not all mercury bulbs are the same. Cheap knock offs can provide either too little or too much UVB. Yes, name brand bulbs can be pretty expensive, but we are talking about the life of your pet.
Daylight hours:
During the summer months, you should offer around 14 hours of light per day for your Gila monster.
In the winter months and during the cooling period, you can reduce this to 8 hours per day.
If you live in the continental U.S., I recommend simply following the normal daylight hours that you yourself are receiving.
Gila Monster Humidity
Gila monsters actually require some humidity.
Many people think they are from desert like areas, and must prefer a dry environment. The truth is, these lizards are most active after it rains and do better with some humidity.
I recommend maintaining a level of around 50% – 60% for your pet Gila monster.
To put this in perspective, that’s about the same range as a ball python.
This can usually be maintained with a shallow water dish, and occasional misting.
Water
Providing water for your Gila monster is a little bit different than most reptile species.
The water level in the water dish should only reach the lizards belly.
If you go deeper than that, you’ll find that the Gila spends all of its time soaking to the exclusion of everything else, which is not healthy.
In the wild, these lizards come out after heavy rains. They can often times be found soaking in pools and puddles left over from the rain. That’s fine occasionally, but not all the time.
Once per month you should offer your Gila monster a water bowl deep enough to soak in for a few hours.
Make sure fresh drinking water is provided daily, and keep the water dish clean!
Feeding And Diet For A Pet Gila Monster
Gila monsters are voracious eaters!
They will eat to the point of obesity if they are allowed to do so, which is exactly what you want to avoid.
In the wild, these lizards eat a wide variety of food including rodents, birds, eggs and insects.
In captivity, you should stick with appropriately sized rodents. They are whole prey lizards, meaning they eat the entire animal in one gulp rather than tearing off bite sized pieces.
For babies this means pinky mice. Adults can be fed large mice or small rats.
Here are the feeding frequencies I recommend.
- Babies can be fed every 4-5 days.
- Yearlings can be fed every 5-7 days.
- Adults should be fed every 10-14 days.
- Adult females should be fed twice weekly during breeding season in order to build up to egg laying, and to recover from it.
You should always use pre-killed or frozen food that has been thawed when feeding any reptile.
Gila Monster Temperament And Handling
Gila monsters are usually low keyed and docile.
They can bite you in the blink of an eye however, which is why they are recommended for more experienced keepers. You should always wear gloves when handling a Gila.
Gila monster bites are not considered lethal even though they are venomous.
They are extremely painful though, and these lizards don’t like to let go!
The best methods to get a biting Gila to let go is to either spray hand sanitizer in its mouth, or put its head under cool running water.
Generally speaking, even though they are typically calm and bites are relatively rare, these reptiles are more for look than for touch.
Breeding Gila Monsters
There is actually quite a lot that goes into the breeding process for Gila monsters.
Here are the basics of Gila monster breeding.
- Both lizards should be healthy adults. Sexual maturity is reached between the ages of three and five.
- Stop feeding two weeks prior to cooling the enclosure.
- Slowly lower the temperatures of their enclosures by 1-2 degrees per day until you reach 55-57 degrees.
- Maintain these temperatures for 2-3 months, then begin slowly raising the temperatures back to normal by 1-2 degrees per day.
- Begin feeding your lizards twice per week for 3-4 weeks once the temperature is back in the 80’s in order to help them regain their strength in preparation for breeding.
- Introduce the female into the males cage, and leave it there until they have copulated, or for two weeks; whichever comes first.
- Remove the female and house her alone until she lays the eggs, which will take 42-55 days.
- After she has laid her eggs, incubate them at a constant temperature of 82-85 degrees.
- Eggs will hatch in about 9 months.
If you are serious about breeding Gila monsters, I am currently writing a full article with very precise steps to ensure the best chance of success.
I will have that article ready within the next week or two, and will provide a link here.
Gila Monster Life Span
Gila monsters have a slightly longer life span than many other lizards similar in size.
Captive specimens have been known to live up to 30 years.
Gila monster Health Issues
The Gila monster has no inherent health concerns.
Most health issues arise from poor husbandry practices. Following this guide will go a long way towards having a healthy pet for years to come.
Always seek the advice of a professional veterinarian if any issues arise.
Availability Of The Gila Monster
Gila monsters are not as readily available as many other species of lizard.
Here’s why.
- Wild caught specimens are out of the question.
- They are better suited to more experienced handlers.
- The breeding process takes about a year, which is a long time for someone wanting to earn a profit.
- Many states have regulations concerning venomous reptiles.
On the bright side, most breeders that offer them are quality breeders. It takes too much work for a bad breeder who just wants to earn a quick buck!
You should still do your research though,to ensure that your future pet is indeed legal and healthy.
Prices typically start around $1,000 and go up from there. More desirable markings can easily cost you several thousand dollars.
Summary
Gila monsters really make awesome pets if they are taken care of the right way.
They are not for the beginner though. You should have at least a couple years of experience handling, and properly maintaining other lizards before moving to this one.