Overview
The green tree python (Morelia viridis) is an arboreal snake that has been in the pet trade for a number of decades.
It is commonly considered an extremely aggressive, and fragile snake that requires expert level experience to maintain properly.
That is no longer the case.
While it’s true that they are not as easy to care for as other snakes such as corn snakes or California kingsnakes, advances in modern snake husbandry have made it to where green tree pythons are viable pets for almost any snake enthusiast.
Green Tree Python Care Guide
| Care level | Moderate to advanced |
| Temperament | Somewhat defensive and nippy |
| Native to | Northern Australia and much of New Guinea |
| Average size | 4-6 feet |
| Cage requirements | 2’x2’x2′ minimum |
| Temperature | Daytime mid 80’s, night time low of mid 70’s |
| Humidity | 60%-70% |
| Preferred food | Rodents |
| Feeding frequency | Once every two weeks |
| Lifespan | Over 20 years |
Green Tree Python Housing Needs
There is a misconception that arboreal snakes need tall enclosures. This isn’t true.
Yes, green tree pythons are typically found perched on a branch. In captivity however, it doesn’t matter if that branch is two feet off the ground or six feet.
These snakes are nocturnal. They will most often stay in one spot throughout the day. They may move from a basking area to a cooler area in order to thermoregulate, but for the most part they stay put.
At night they are more active, exploring their surroundings and looking for food.
Green tree pythons in the wild move horizontally through the tree branches.
The same is true in captivity.
You want to offer a few different branches and perches for them to choose from, with some being on the warm side of the enclosure and others being on the cooler side.
The height of these perches doesn’t matter though. At least not to the snake. But it will matter to you.
Having a cage that is only 2-3 feet tall will not only be simpler for you to buy or make, but will also be easier for you to maintain proper heat and humidity.
Housing baby green tree pythons
I recommend going with something smaller. 1′ tall by 1′ wide and 1′ tall is adequate room for your snake, and the smaller size gives them a sense of security.
Housing adult green tree pythons
They should be housed in an enclosure no smaller than 2’x2’x2′.
A slightly larger enclosure that measures 3’x3’x3′ would be even better.
It will offer you a better chance at offering a temperature gradient that goes from warm to cool, while still being small enough to maintain your desired humidity levels.
Side note:
I recommend using an enclosure which opens from the front rather than the top. It will make it easier to clean, feed and handle your snake.
Decorations For A Green Tree Python
One of the most obvious traits of green tree pythons is that they are almost always perched on a rod or branch.
It is often easier to handle these snakes if you can have the perch out in the open in front of you, rather than reaching into the cage and trying to bodily remove it.
Perches should be secure, but also removable.
Perches can be as simple as PVC, or as elaborate as branches. Just make sure that if you use anything from outside, you completely sterilize it to prevent exposing your snake to parasites.
Besides perches, you might also want to decorate your pet’s enclosure to give it a more natural look and feel.
Personally, I have always preferred aquarium backgrounds for the back and sides of my reptile’s cage. There is a wide variety to choose from, and they are easily changed if you ever want to redecorate.
Add a few plants (real or fake) and you have an awesome looking habitat!
Green Tree Python Substrate
As for substrate, nearly any reptile substrate will suffice since these snakes are rarely on the ground. This is where you need to consider humidity.
Some substrates hold, and slowly release water better than others.
What is the best substrate for a green tree python? The best green tree python substrates will hold some moisture and raise the humidity of the enclosure. A thick layer of organic topsoil mixed with coconut bark, cypress mulch, or sand, or a reptile-safe tropical mulch will work well.
These products can typically hold moisture for over 24 hours, and slowly release it throughout the day. They also give a more natural look to the enclosure.
An alternative green tree python substrate would be puppy pads.
They are great for reptiles that require a higher humidity level, and are also extremely easy to clean.
The green tree python however, has a very slow metabolism and may only defecate once every month or two. There really isn’t much cleaning involved beyond scrubbing the inside walls every week or two.
That being the case, I prefer to go with the more natural looking reptile barks that are readily available on the market. Still, there’s nothing wrong with using puppy pads if you want. They will work for all practical purposes.
A couple of live plants aren’t a bad idea either. They will both give a natural look to the enclosure, and help maintain higher humidity levels at the same time.
Green Tree Python Lighting
No snake enclosure is complete without great lighting to show off your specimen.
What lighting do green tree pythons need? Green tree pythons do no require full spectrum lighting, but it is preferable. It brings out the snakes natural colors, and makes them look better in their habitat. Full spectrum lighting also gives you the opportunity to use a wider variety of natural plants if you choose to go that route.
Their natural habitat is near the equator, so in the wild these snakes receive approximately 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of darkness year round.
I recommend setting up a timer on the lights you use, and keeping that same schedule of 12 and 12.
Best Temperatures For Green Tree Pythons
As I said, green tree pythons live near the equator.
This means they receive approximately the same number of daylight hours each day, and a steady temperature year round. There is also not much variation between day time and night time temps, other than basking areas.
Here are the best temperatures for green tree pythons. The ambient air temperature of the green tree pythons enclosure should be kept in the low to mid 80’s. You should also provide a basking area for your green tree python that reaches 88-92 degrees. Temperatures at night can be allowed to drop down to 72-75 degrees. Having a range of 80 degrees on the cool side, and a basking area on the hot side will allow your green tree python to thermoregulate properly.
What you really want to do is observe your snake, and find what they prefer.
A snake that spends all its time basking is a snake that is an enclosure that is not warm enough.
A snake that rarely basks, or is often in its water bowl is a sign that the enclosure is too hot.
I say this so you will understand that my temperature recommendations are not die hard rules. They are simply a guide to put you on the right track. All temperatures listed are in Fahrenheit.
Green tree pythons should generally have an average daytime temperature in the lower 80’s. A basking area needs to be provided that reaches into the high 80’s.
Night temperatures can fall into the low to mid 70’s, but should not go below 70 degrees.
Green Tree Python Humidity
Now that you’ve heard my sermon on reading your snake’s body language for temperature, what do you think I’m going to say about humidity?
There is an awesome article on this site that explains a ton of ways to raise and maintain high humidity which you can read here. 15 Ways To Maintain Perfect Humidity.
Green tree pythons do best in a humidity range of 50%-70%.
Here are a few humidity tips specific to green tree pythons.
- Spike the humidity a little bit higher than normal when you see that your snake is about to shed. When you see their eyes turning milky, begin misting an extra time every day. Snakes should shed in one continuous piece.
- Eye caps sticking during shed is a sign that the humidity level is not high enough.
- Babies and neonates need a slightly higher humidity level than adults. Not a lot, but you do want them at the higher end of the range.
- Make sure to use more than one hygrometer. You should know the humidity levels throughout the enclosure, not just in one place. At least one hygrometer should be placed near where your snake perches the most.
In the beginning you may want to have hygrometers near the various perches your snake can use. See which humidity level your pet prefers to stay in.
Water For Your Green Tree Python
There are a couple of important things to note about water for your green tree python.
It’s true that they will drink water from their skin when you mist them.
It’s also true that they like to drink from a bowl as well.
They may not venture to the bottom of the cage often though, so the water bowl should be placed just below their favorite perch.
The other point I want to make is about green tree python dehydration.
Humidity levels alone will not keep your python hydrated. People often confuse a dehydrated snake with one that needs more humidity.
Here are a couple of signs to look for.
- Wrinkly, placid skin. When a snake is dehydrated, their skin may look wrinkly and dry. When you pinch it, it may take several seconds to return to normal. This is dehydration, and usually not a humidity issue. Your snake is not taking in enough water.
- Tail hanging is another sign of dehydration. A dehydrated green tree python may become constipated which can lead to rectal prolapse. This is basically when the snakes bowels turn inside out when they try to defecate. The snake may try to bend its tail over the cloaca to keep it in place.
These things can be avoided through proper hydration which includes both humidity levels as well as water intake.
If your snake is appearing dehydrated, try placing it in a water bowl.
Whereas snakes do not absorb water through their skin like the permeable skin of frogs, you will often find that when placed in a bowl of water, your green tree python will begin drinking.
Green Tree Python Feeding Chart
| Green Tree Python Weight | Feeder Size | Feeding Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 24 grams | Day old pinky mouse | 4 days |
| 25-30 grams | Small pinky mouse | 4-5 days |
| 31-40 grams | Medium pinky mouse | 5 days |
| 41-80 grams | Large pinky mouse | 6 days |
| 81-140 grams | Small-med fuzzy mouse | Weekly |
| 141-170 grams | Med-large fuzzy mouse | Weekly |
| 171-200 grams | Hopper mouse | 8-10 days |
| 201-300 grams | Small mice | 10-12 days |
| 301-525 grams | Adult mice | 12 days |
| 526-800 grams | Small rat or jumbo mouse | 2 weeks |
| Over 800 grams | Small-medium rat | 2 weeks |
Green Tree Python Feeding And Diet
The above feeding chart is a great place to start, and I felt it important to include on this page for people who are new to keeping green tree pythons.
As you gain experience however, there are additional aspects of feeding you need to be aware of.
Green tree pythons will eagerly overeat if given the opportunity. Additionally, this snake does not always get enough exercise. They also have a lower metabolism than other python species.
An obese green tree python can have health issues and a shorter life span.
A more natural approach to feeding is to observe your snake.
Green tree pythons will often retreat to a basking area after they have eaten in order to let their food digest.
When they get hungry again, you will find them coming down to lower branches, and exploring their cage at night.
This not only tells you that it’s time to feed, it also provides the green tree python a little extra exercise. Rather than perching and feeding all the time, it’s healthy for your snake to move around the enclosure. It also provides mental stimulation as it hunts.
Use the above chart as a guide, but be sure to observe your snake and learn what it is telling you.
An additional tip on feeding.
You should always feed frozen/thawed food to your snake.
Here is a great article to get you started. 22 Tips To Get A Snake To Eat Frozen Food.
Green Tree Python Temperament
Green tree pythons tend to be a bit nippier than other python species.
This has give them a bad reputation! Many people falsely believe that these snakes can’t be handled.
Contrary to popular belief, green tree pythons are not overly aggressive.
Let me let you in on a little secret:
These snakes can be calmed down and handled IF you know how to do it the right way.
Handling A Green Tree Python
Green tree pythons can be a little more timid and defensive than other snakes, but if you handle them the right way, get them accustomed to being handled, and learn to read their body language, you will find that they calm down relatively quickly.
Here are the keys to having a manageable green tree python.
- Handle your snake during the day rather than at night. As a nocturnal snake, they are typically sleeping, or at least calmer and less active. Reaching in the cage at night can trigger their hunting and/or territorial instincts.
- Use removable perches in the enclosure. Rather than removing the snake from its housing by grabbing the body, you want to remove the entire perch it is on in order to make things easier.
- Once you have them out of the enclosure on their perch, hold their body from underneath. Coming over the top to grab your snake can scare them and cause a strike.
- Gently rub the snakes body as you hold it on its perch. This will get it accustomed to your touch, and should cause it to start moving around.
- Watch your snakes body language and understand it. This is one of the reasons these snakes are recommended for intermediate handlers. Is it tense, or relaxed? Is it holding its neck in an “S” curve naturally, or is it about to strike? Understanding your snakes body language is probably the most important step in this entire process.
- Allow the snake to come to you, rather than reaching for it. If your python’s face is moving towards your arm in a relaxed manner, it’s not doing so in order to bite you. On the other hand, if you reach for your snake, it may perceive your hand as a threat and react accordingly.
- Once your snake is beginning to move around, and has begun examining your body, you can slowly coax it off the perch and onto your hand. You still don’t want to make any movements towards its head. Instead, use the fingers of the hand holding the perch to rub the snake, and slowly get it to loosen its grip on the perch.
- Be VERY careful of its tail! Green tree pythons have skinny, brittle tails. It doesn’t take much to accidentally break their bones. The idea is to get your snake to loosen its grip enough for you to slide the perch out. Don’t force it. Just coax more of the snakes body onto your arm or hand.
And that’s it!
One More Bit Of Advice
Your snake will be the most likely to bite right when you start handling it.
If you are touching it from underneath and behind, it won’t typically turn around and tag your hand. Instead, it may take a lunge at your body or face.
Be calm and confident.
Keep control of the perch, and allow it to calm down.
As I said in the steps above, once it starts coming towards you in a relaxed or inquisitive manner it isn’t trying to bite. It is simply exploring.
Green Tree Python Behavior
Green tree pythons pretty much just perch and chill during the day. The same is true for after they’ve eaten while their body digests the food.
At night they may become more active, exploring their cage, moving through the branches and hunting for food.
Green Tree Python Health Issues
There are a few health issues often associated with this snake.
The majority of issues can be avoided through good husbandry.
Things like dehydration and respiratory issues can be avoided with proper temperature and humidity.
Here are the green tree python health issues to watch for!
- Necrotic stomatits (mouth rot) – This is caused by the snake injuring its mouth, and a bacterial infection setting in. It can be caused by the snake striking the glass, or from sharp objects like sand or rough wood injuring the mouth when it is eating its food.
- The first sign of mouth rot is a decrease in appetite followed by swollen lips.
- If you see these signs, get your snake to a vet right away. Antibiotic injections will probably be necessary, and the vet may also have to scrape out the bacteria through surgery.
- Spinal kinks – This is basically a snake with scoliosis. Kinks in the spine or back which are permanent. These usually appear between the time they start to change color, to the time they’re around two years old.
- The exact cause of spinal kinks is not known, though there are two prevailing theories.
- One theory is injury caused by rough or improper handling.
- The second theory is that this is caused by calcium deficiency. Baby and neonate GTP’s are usually fed pinky mice in captivity. Pinky mice are poor in calcium since they haven’t fully developed their bones yet. Injecting .3 – .4 mg of calcium syrup into the pinky may be a way to prevent this issue.
- Rectal Prolapse – To put it bluntly, this is when the snakes bowels are pushed to the outside of its anus rather than staying inside where they belong. Once your snake has this, they are prone to having it happen again throughout their life.
- Like spinal kinks, the cause of this issue isn’t 100% understood, but the leading theories suggest poor diet stemming from pinky mice.
- This can also be caused by dehydration. Frozen rodents lose a lot of moisture through the freezing process. If you use frozen/thawed food, you should inject it with a little bit of water.
- Another way to help prevent this is by exercising your snake. Get it out and moving around.
- Tail Hanging – This is not a health issue in and of itself, but it is a sign of other health concerns.
- Your snake may be hanging its tail if it is too hot. There are more blood vessels in the tail, and allowing the tail to hang is like sticking your feet out of the covers on a hot night.
- This may also be a sign that your snake is not exercising enough. They should have more than one perch, and enough room to move laterally throughout their cage.
I don’t want to scare you with these potential health issues, but I do want you to be aware of them.
Most can be overcome with good husbandry of your snake, but it may require more than the usual amount that many pythons require.
Green Tree Python Life Span
The green tree python typically lives into its mid to late teens. Specimens making it into their early 20’s aren’t unheard of though.
Good husbandry practices can help your snake live a long and healthy life.
Breeding
As you can guess, breeding green tree pythons is a bit more challenging than many other species.
Here is a brief overview of the breeding process.
- Over the course of two weeks, slowly bring the night time temperature of both the male and female’s enclosure down to 68-70 degrees.
- During this time you should also reduce the daytime temps by 2-4 degrees.
- Maintain these temperatures for one week, then introduce the male into the female’s enclosure.
- Leave the two snakes together for four weeks, or until they show signs that they have finished breeding.
- Signs that they have finished breeding will include:
- The male will lose interest in the female.
- The female will refuse food.
- Coloring for the female may dull and/or take on a bluish hue
- Once the female is gravid, the male can be returned to his enclosure, and can go back to normal daytime and night time temperatures.
- Females can also go back to normal temperatures, and a nesting box should be placed in her enclosure.
A female green tree python will lay eggs around 6 weeks after she has successfully bred.
There is so much involved in not only the breeding process, but also the incubation process and establishing the babies however, that it deserves it’s own special page.
Here is a fully detailed article I wrote about breeding green tree pythons.
Green Tree Python Availability
Green tree pythons are readily available in a multitude of places.
You can find them in pet stores that carry snakes, reptile shows, private breeders and any number of online breeders.
Make sure to do your research to ensure that you are using a reputable breeder.
Babies should have eaten at least a few times before being offered for sale.
You should also request pictures of the parents to see that they are in good health.
Summary
Green tree pythons are more challenging to successfully raise than many other constrictors.
Using this guide as well as the other guides that I included, such as the one for humidity, will give you a much greater chance of having a healthy and beautiful snake for years to come.