Overview
If you want to get started with venomous snakes as pets, the North American copperhead, Agkistrodon contortrix, may be the way to go.
While considered an advanced species of snake for herpers because it is venomous, its ease of care and low toxicity level make it a great entry level snake for those wanting a venomous species.
Copperheads can be found in the eastern and southeastern portion of the United States. They range from New England to the northern part of Florida, and from the east coast to as far west as Iowa, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas and Mexico.
Copperheads are slow moving, ground dwelling snakes which grow to an average of three feet in length. They are able to swim and climb, but are most often found on the ground in dense foliage or under fallen trees and large rocks.
North American Copperhead Snake Care
| Care level | Advanced. Easy to care for, but venomous. |
| Temperament | Semi-aggressive |
| Native to | Southeastern United States |
| Average size | 2-3 feet |
| Cage requirements | Equivalent of a 30-55 gallon aquarium |
| Temperature | Basking area in the mid 90’s F. Night time low of 70 F |
| Humidity | 50%-60% |
| Preferred food | Rodents |
| Feeding frequency | Every 7-10 days |
| Lifespan | 20 years or longer |
Can You Have A Copperhead Snake As A Pet?
The first thing you’ll want to do before acquiring a pet copperhead, is to check your local laws.
Can you have a copperhead as a pet? Yes, you can have a copperhead snake as a pet. There are no federal laws keeping you from owning one, but each state, city, county and even municipality can have different laws and ordinances regarding this. Most states allow you to keep copperheads as pets with a permit.
At the end of the day however, it is up to you to check the laws regarding where you specifically live.
Here is an article I wrote for Gila monsters which covers the basic laws for each state, Pet Gila Monster. While not related to copperheads, they are still a native venomous reptile, and the same laws will apply.
Copperhead Snake Housing Needs
These thick bodied snakes grow to an average length of around 3 feet. To give you an idea, this is about the same size as a two year old ball python.
Since temperature and humidity are of less concern for this species, which naturally lives in temperate climates, an enclosure equal to a 30-55 gallon aquarium should be sufficient.
Of course there is nothing wrong with going larger if you have the space and the budget.
Hiding spaces such as rock caves, and half logs are not absolutely crucial for this snake, but they will take advantage of them if they are provided. They will also help reduce the stress level, which is very important for snakes.
Personally I try to make my pet’s enclosures look as natural as possible. I like to include both a rock cave and a half log, as well as fake foliage for my snakes to peruse in.
I even go the extra step, and change the foliage to match the season!
If you decide to use natural decorations such as rocks and sticks from outside, be sure to heat treat them for parasites.
One last thing.
Copperheads are venomous snakes. They may be less toxic than other viper species, but caution is always of paramount importance.
As a pet owner, you are not only responsible for your own safety, but also for the safety and well being of others. Extra care should be taken to ensure your snake’s enclosure is secure, and that there is no chance for escape!
Pro Housing Tip
Any time you keep a venomous reptile, you should label the enclosure with the common and scientific name of the animal.
Additionally, you should keep a list of nearby hospitals with the proper antivenom, and emergency procedures visibly posted near the enclosure.
This way if you become incapacitated, friends, family, or emergency personnel will have all of the information they need.
What Temperature Is Best For A Copperhead Snake?
Copperheads can withstand a wider range of temperatures than many of the other venomous species, and range is the key.
In the wild, these snakes are active from spring through fall. This means there are days when the temperature is in the 60’s and days that can exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
You don’t need a range quite that wide though.
What temperature do captive copperheads need? Offering a gradient where the warm side of the enclosure is close to 90 and the cool side is close to 80 is ideal. You should also provide a basking area which reaches into the mid to high 90’s. Night time temperatures can be kept in the low to mid 70’s.
Although copperheads go through a period of brumation, a snakes way of hibernating in the cold winter months, it is not necessary in captivity unless you plan on breeding. (more on that later)
Copperhead Snake Lighting Needs
Lighting for your copperhead should mimic natural daylight.
I like to use natural UVB florescent bulbs. You can use a timer if you would like, to turn the lights on just after sunrise and off just before sunset, but it isn’t necessary.
As for me, most of my habitats are kept in a room that receives natural light. I turn the lights on when I get up in the morning, and turn them off when it starts to get dark rather than using a timer.
Caution!
If your room has natural light too, make sure the cage never sits in direct sunlight. This can cause the enclosure to heat up, much like a car sitting in the sun, and can kill your snake.
What Humidity Level Do Copperhead Snakes Need?
As with temperature, humidity is not of high concern for this species. At least not compared to many other snakes.
Humidity and temperature are two of the most important aspects of reptile husbandry, but copperheads live in a wide range throughout the Southeastern United States, so there is a lot of fluctuation throughout the year.
Here is the humidity range a copperhead snake requires. 50-60% humidity is ideal, but it is safe to go a little higher or lower so long as you are not creating either an arid or a tropical environment. The normal relative humidity in your home is usually enough for them to get by, unless you live in an extremely arid area.
Your copperhead might require a little extra humidity when it is about to shed. Misting the cage once per day should be adequate to raise the humidity level to over 60%.
If you are having troubles maintaining the level you want, here is an article I wrote about snake humidity needs to help you out.
Water
Always keep a clean bowl of water in the enclosure for your snake to drink and bathe. This should be changed daily.
I recommend placing the water in an area that will benefit humidity.
If you live in an arid area like Arizona, place the water on the warm side of the cage so it will evaporate quicker and raise the humdity.
If you live in an area of higher humidity like Florida, keep the water on the cool side.
Copperhead Snake Substrate Needs
There are two factors I look at when determining which substrate to use.
- Aesthetics – How do I want my set up to look?
- Humidity – Do I want high, medium or low humidity?
Copperheads often live in, or near wooded areas with medium humidity.
Which substrate is best for a copperhead snake? Good substrate choices for a copperhead are topsoil, coconut husk mulch, cypress mulch, or fir bark mulch. You can use any of these as a stand alone substrate, or can mix them together for different looks and humidity levels. If using topsoil, make sure it is free of any manure, pesticides or fertilizers.
If you want to get real creative, you can also create a natural terrarium with live plants. Just be careful not to get plants that require a lot of water. Your copperhead should have dry places to rest where its scales are not in direct contact with moisture.
Also be careful not to introduce bugs or parasites into their enclosure.
What Do Copperhead Snakes Eat?
In the wild, the majority of a copperhead snake’s diet is made up of various rodents. They are also known to eat insects, other reptiles, frogs, toads and other amphibians, and have even been seen occasionally climbing trees to search out cicadas and small birds. In captivity, adults will do just fine with large mice or small rats.
Some people like to occasionally offer things like baby chics as well, but it is not necessary to meet their nutritional needs.
Never offer amphibians or other reptiles to your pet snake. These can carry internal parasites which can in turn infect your copperhead.
Pinky mice work well for baby and juvenile copperheads.
Ideally, you never want to feed a copperhead food that is larger in diameter than the snake is as its widest point. Now is also the time when you want to train your copperhead to eat pre-killed or frozen food that has been thawed.
Here is an article I wrote showing you how to do this. How To Get A Snake To Eat Frozen Food.
Copperhead Feeding
Babies and juveniles should be fed once per week. Adults should be fed once every 10 days.
Copperheads are hearty eaters, and will overeat if given the opportunity. Obesity is just as dangerous for snakes as it is for people. Keep your pet healthy!
Pro Feeding Tip!
Copperheads like to stay partially inside of a hide box quite often if one is provided.
If you consistently feed your snake in front of its hide box, you might find that it becomes aggressive when it is in there. It will associate that space with food which can make it challenging to move the snake for cage cleaning and such.
Depending on how often you handle your snake, you might consider feeding in a separate enclosure to help minimize this risk. It isn’t something I recommend for most snake species, but copperhead owners tend to handle their snake more often than other venomous species. You want every advantage you can get.
Do Copperhead Snakes Hibernate?
Copperhead snakes do not hibernate. They go through a brumation period. This is the reptile version of hibernation. In cold weather their metabolism slows, and they become lethargic; not sleeping, just very inactive. Their metabolism slows down so much that their digestive system stops.
In fact their metabolism slows so much, if their last meal wasn’t digested when it was warm, it might rot inside of the snakes gut.
I bring this up because some copperheads have been known to go through this brumation period in captivity despite maintaining year round constant temperatures.
This is especially true of wild caught copperheads.
If you find your snake refusing food, and becoming inactive during the winter months, don’t be alarmed. Your pet copperhead can go without eating for a few months and be just fine.
You might even lower the temperature to the high 60’s, and reduce the amount of daylight hours for a few weeks.
After that, slowly raise the temperature by a degree per day, and the light by several minutes per day until things are back to normal. Just make sure that your snake has had a full week of warmth after eating their last meal.
Of course if you see additional signs of health issues beyond refusing food such as troubles shedding, increased aggressiveness, crusty eyes etc…or if your snake still refuses to eat after this period, then you should seek professional veterinary advice.
Copperhead Snake Temperament and Handling
The obvious things for me to say is to never handle a copperhead with your bare hands.
- Always use proper equipment such as a snake hook, snake tongs/grabbers etc… Handling venomous snakes requires training and experience. It only takes one mistake to get a venom loaded bite which can be lethal.
- Additionally, you should never handle a venomous snake alone. Someone else who is also trained and experienced should be with you in case you are bitten and/or the snake gets loose.
- Finally, copperheads (or any venomous snake for that matter) should only be handled when absolutely necessary. Any time you handle a snake you are not only risking a potentially fatal injury to yourself, you are also exposing others to that risk should the snake get loose.
Now that I’ve prefaced everything with these necessary caution statements, let me tell you about their temperament and handling.
Copperheads are a little more high strung than your average nonvenomous snake. They’re a little more on edge and nervous, but when calm they can be fairly docile.
It is important to understand the body language of your copperhead.
Vibrating their tail for example, is a sign that they are nervous and may be more prone to bite. Jerky movements, quickly pulling their head back defensively, quick and sudden changes of direction, are all signs that your copperhead might be on the defensive.
A snake showing signs of defensiveness, is a snake more likely to strike!
That being said, I’ve witnessed multiple people handling their copperheads bare handed.
Again, I want to stress I am NOT recommending this.
In fact I will say that this is an unsafe practice! It is my intent however, to give you a realistic view of how I see many copperhead owners interact with their snake.
The people I have seen do this are experienced in handling venomous snakes. They also take their snake out of the cage with the proper equipment, and then work with the snake until they feel that it is calm enough to handle.
As I stated earlier, these snakes can be both defensive and/or food aggressive any time their enclosure is opened. Bring them down to a calm state before attempting to handle.
Breeding Copperhead Snakes In Captivity
There are two breeding seasons for copperheads in the wild.
The first is in early spring from February-May. The second is in early fall from August-October. How you breed your snake depends on which season you are in. More on that in a moment.
Successful copperhead breeding largely depends on the female.
While females are capable of breeding annually, there are times when they may decide to skip a year or two and not breed at all.
It is believed that this is mostly determined by the environment and the availability of food, which should not be a factor in captive breeding.
You should be aware however, that it is possible a female snake may simply decide she does not want to breed.
Additionally, females may sometimes challenge males to a “wrestling match”.
When this happens, they lift the front half of their bodies off the ground while intertwining around one another. The one who is able to climb the highest and stay up the longest is the winner.
The contests can sometimes be fierce, with feints and strikes as each snake attempts to dominate the other. Should the male lose this contest, the female will not mate with him.
With all of that in mind, let’s look at how you breed copperhead snakes.
Copperhead Snake Breeding Process
Regardless of the season, males should be introduced into the females cage.
- You should wait until 5-7 days after their last meal to do this. When a female copperhead is ready to breed, she will lay down a scent trail that the male follows.
- Leave the snakes together until they have copulated. Copulation may last for about an hour. You will see the snakes lying side by side with the bottom portion of their bodies intertwined together.
- If you have not witnessed copulation after two weeks, return the male to his cage. Feed both snakes, wait a week, and try again.
If you are breeding in the spring, a little more prep work will need to happen.
- First off, make sure your snake has had at least two full weeks of normal temperatures since their last meal. You want to make sure any food in their gut has had time to fully digest.
- Next, you will want to begin lowering the daytime and night time temperatures gradually. You will also slowly begin reducing the number of daylight hours.
Ultimately the goal will be to take daytime temps down to 55-60 degrees.
Night time temps should be lowered to 45-50. You don’t want to do this all at once though, as you may risk causing your snake to go into shock.
Try lowering the average temperature by around 5 degrees per week. Something like 1 degree every day Monday through Friday, leave it there over the weekend, then another degree per day the following week until you reach the temperature you are aiming for.
Daylight hours should also be reduced down to around 8 hours per day. Since I don’t know how many hours of daylight you as a reader are providing your copperhead, I don’t know how much time you need to reduce. Simply do the math, and reduce gradually as you lower the temperatures.
Once you have reached the lowest temperature and daylight hours, maintain those levels for approximately two weeks.
Then begin gradually raising the temperatures and daylight hours the same way you decreased them.
The entire process will last somewhere around 2-3 months. Once you have achieved this, and your snakes are active again, offer them a meal. Wait one week, then follow the same process as I described for fall breeding.
Copperheads are ovoviparous meaning the eggs actually develop and hatch inside of the body. They deliver an average of 4-8 live young, though sometimes they may deliver as few as two or as many as 20.
Breeding Tips
- Both snakes need to be healthy before breeding.
- Besides reducing the chances of successful procreation, breeding your snakes if they are under fed or have any signs of health issues might result in the death of your copperheads.
- When breeding in the fall, female copperheads will often times store the sperm until after they have gone through their brumation period, and deliver the babies in the spring.
- The gestation period is approximately 3 months, though it may take as long as 9 months before babies are born if they have stored the sperm.
Copperhead Snake Health Issues
Copperhead snakes are a pretty hardy species. With proper husbandry, there are no inherent health issues that you need to watch for. The average life expectancy in captivity is over 20 years.
Summary
Of all the venomous species of snakes kept as pets, copperheads are about the easiest to keep and maintain. I would even go as far as to say that other than the higher inherent risks associated with keeping a venomous snake, they are much easier to house than many boas or pythons!
That being said, they ARE venomous. And whereas they are on the low end of the danger spectrum, a bite still has the potential to be deadly. I probably won’t die if I put my finger in a light socket either, but I don’t want to do it and don’t recommend it to others!
What I’m saying is, treat these snakes with the reverence that a potentially deadly animal deserves. Never get careless, always maintain a written bite protocol in case of an accident, and keep in mind that you are responsible for the safety of anyone who could ever potentially be in contact with your pet either purposely or accidentally.